Beyond Santorini: Exploring the Greek Islands
Last September, I had the good fortune to travel to Greece, a country that had been at the top of my bucket list for years with its picturesque cobblestone streets, breathtaking beaches, and delicious cuisine. I explored the islands with a tour group that I’d traveled with just months before, and out of the three islands we were to be visiting, I was only familiar with Santorini. The other two, Paros and Milos, I’d never heard of, and wasn’t really sure what to expect.
Little did I know that of all the islands, Santorini, which is far and away the most Instagram-famous of them all, would actually end up being my least favorite. Milos, the most rustic of the three, had a natural beauty unlike anything I’d ever seen before, and Paros was the perfect balance of the two, with fun nightlife and gorgeous scenery.
Sailing on a catamaran on our first full day in Milos, which was arguably my favorite day of the trip. This is a life I could get used to.
Before you head to the islands, you’ll likely arrive in Athens. We were in the city for a day before we took off for Milos, which was just enough time to visit the Pantheon, have some incredible meals (I recommend a trip to Ergon House for lunch and drinks on the rooftop), go shopping, and visit the pharmacy to score some Colgate herbal toothpaste after realizing I forgot mine (why doesn’t the U.S. sell toothpaste flavored with chamomile and eucalyptus???).
The next day, we took, a VERY bumpy ferry to the island of Milos, but with the help of many glasses of Prosecco, we made it there unscathed and without getting sick.
One of absolute must-see spots on Milos is Sarakaniko Beach. This “beach” is made up of white volcanic rock that’s been battered by wind and waves and provides a stunning contrast against the deep blue and turquoise waters. The white rock and complete lack of vegetation give the landscape a moon-like appearance, and visitors can enjoy lounging in shallow waters or diving off cliffs (if you’re brave enough!). Don’t forget your camera because this place was absolutely stunning.
After we left one beach, we headed for another - this time, Paliochori Beach. With clear, turquoise water and a bar right off the sand, this was the perfect spot to waste away the afternoon and enjoy a lunch of Greek salad, grilled octopus, and too many glasses of wine.
The next day on Milos, we took off on a catamaran and swam up to beaches we had all to ourselves. At the end of the day, we snorkeled through clear, warm waters and swam through rugged crevices before feasting on pasta with (you guessed it) octopus, salad, roasted chicken, Greek salad, roasted potatoes, and, of course, wine.
After Milos, we went to Santorini, which I’ll share more about at the end. Santorini was beautiful, BUT there is so much more to the Greek Islands than Santorini. And I’ll be honest, the crowds of people that were clogging the streets made me glad we were only there for two nights. Because of this, I want to focus more on the other islands. But here’s a picture, so Santorini isn’t too left out.
Next up, the island of Paros offered that balance between the packed streets of Santorini and rugged charm of Milos. While the island is small, it has a few very charming towns with great shopping, restaurants, and bars - but without the horde of humans. And while Santorini’s beaches are limited, Paros had plenty of options, from rustic beaches with volcanic mud to soothe your skin, to powdery-soft sandy beaches with bars, restaurants, and shops just steps away.
The streets of Paros are quintessential Greece, with stone pathways, bougainvillea blooming everywhere you look, and bright white buildings with blue trim. The two towns where I spent the most time were Naousa, a lively town right on the water, and the city of Paros by the Port, with a labyrinth of charming streets.
Tips for Your Greece Trip
Consider renting a car on these islands. Unless you’re in Santorini, there are very few taxi drivers (there were only seven on the entire island of Paros), and we nearly got stranded at a remote beach because there was a soccer match, which everyone apparently wanted to watch (not kidding).
While olive oil is a huge industry in Greece, it’s primarily on the mainland - not the islands. We were never offered olive oil with bread, but didn’t complain once we got the tatziki.
Wonder why the buildings are all white? I thought there would be a bigger story behind this, but it’s mainly just because it reflects sun, so homes stay cooler - which is important because the sun is constantly (I mean CONSTANTLY) beating down on the islands. Don’t forget your sunscreen, and reapply, reapply, reapply.
Greek salad is pretty much the same everywhere and is SO MUCH BETTER than our American version of it. It always consists of green bell peppers, kalamata olives, tomatoes, cucumber, capers, and chunks of feta cheese with a lemony vinaigrette. And on that note, capers are an important ingredient (sometimes, even caper leaves are used), and you’ll find them growing throughout the islands in unexpected places. Trust me, by the end of your trip to Greece, you’ll love these little bursts of briny, salty flavor.
If you’re worried about overeating or eating unhealthy food, you can let that go. Meals are fresh, seafood is abundant, and every meal included fresh fruit and vegetables. Unlike in Italy, where I ate pasta every day, in Greece the food was much lighter and I have to admit - I actually liked it a lot more.
Eat all the octopus. It’s so fresh, it’s available everywhere, and you’ll regret it if you don’t.
Greek Island Guide
Milos
Visit Sarakiniko Beach. This is an absolutely MUST. Bring a camera, tons of sunscreen, and a picnic, and get ready to see one of the most gorgeous spots in the world. No exaggeration.
Soak up the sun at Paliochori Beach. The water is amazingly clear and warm, and there’s a great restaurant right off the sand where you can enjoy grilled seafood, salad, and a cold beer. And, if you feel like baring it, go for it - this beach is topless-friendly.
Take a catamaran around the island to explore remote beaches and snorkel around the caves and rocks in Kleftiko. This was my favorite part of the day and so incredibly gorgeous.
Visit Plaka, a small but beautiful town on the top of the island where you can get a great view of the sunset.
Santorini
Hike from the town of Fira to Oia. This hike is about 6 miles and is almost completely exposed, so bring sunscreen and water. You’ll enjoy amazing views of the caldera the entire way, and can treat yourself to a great lunch (and a drink) in Oia once you complete the walk.
Shop and sightsee in Oia. This town is where you’ll see most of the photos of Santorini with the famous blue-domed churches, and there are tons of boutiques, restaurants and bars. Just be prepared to be surrounded by swarms of people - with the island so popular, there were often human traffic jams in the narrow streets. If you’d rather avoid the crowds, Fira is also stunning and slightly less crowded.
Take a wooden boat ride to experience hot springs and walk on the volcano. Yep, you read that right. The hot springs are more on the warm than the hot side, but it was fun to go out and experience this - when else will you get the opportunity to say you’ve been to a hot spring right by a volcano?!
Enjoy some local wines. Santorini’s dry climate makes for great wine, and there are options throughout the island where you can enjoy flights with beautiful views. What could be better?
Paros
Shop, sip, and dine in Naousa. This coastal town is great for strolling around, taking photos, and enjoying an amazing meal with seaside views. Another bonus: it’s much more affordable than Santorini.
Visit Petra Paros to learn about their organic farm, say hello to their animals, and enjoy snacks and wine at their stunning home. I didn’t really know what to expect, but let’s just say that by the time I left, I was seriously questioning my life choices and wondering how I could become a farmer to have land (and a home) like this family does, because it was absolutely beautiful.
Hit up beaches. We went to Santa Maria, which is popular with windsurfers and had warm water, soft white sand, lounge chairs, and a restaurant. If you’re looking for something quieter, Kalogeros is a quiet beach with rocks that have volcanic mud that locals will cover their faces (and bodies!) with to benefit from its healing properties.
Make sure you have at least one meal at Taverna Glafkos. This was one of my favorite meals of the trip, and definitely the most romantic restaurant I’ve been to - we were seated looking over the sea with the waves just a few feet away. Sure, I was with a friend, but… it was still an absolutely beautiful place for a delicious seafood meal.
Swimming in the clear waters in Kleftiko on Milos. Booking a catamaran on this island is an absolute MUST.